As a British mountain, Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) is unique, and being able to buy a celebratory beer after the rigours of ascent – at its summit café – is one of its more agreeable idiosyncrasies.
Inexplicably, ascending the Rhyd Ddu path remains relatively quiet but rates highly in terms of quality. And descending Snowdon's South Ridge afterwards gets you away from the crowds of the Pyg Track and Llanberis path completely.
It's a winning combination which, summit melee aside, will provide you with a thoroughly enjoyable day on one of Britain’s finest mountains. Now then, before I forget, did I mention that pint?
How hard is Snowdon's Rhyd Ddu path?
DIFFICULTY: MEDIUM | DISTANCE: 13km | TIME: 6 hours | TOTAL ASCENT: 925m
FITNESS: This is a moderately strenuous hillwalk, but experienced hikers should have no problem with it.
TERRAIN: Quarry tracks, pitched paths, rough slopes and a narrow ridge with a degree of exposure.
NAVIGATION: Good paths and linear features are followed throughout.
Where is the start of the walk?
Parking at the Welsh Highland Railway car park at Rhyd Ddu. The steam train and Sherpa bus service can be caught in Caernarfon.
What's the best map for Yr Wyddfa?
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CLICK HERE to view and download our digital route guide in OS Maps
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OS Explorer OL17 (1:25k)
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OS Landranger 115 (1:50k)
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Harvey British Mountain Map Snowdonia North (1:40k)
The Rhyd Ddu path and Snowdon's South Ridge | Step-by-step route guide
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From the large car park, walk past the toilet block and at the end of the parking area cross the line of the Welsh Highland Railway via two gates – the first of nine you will encounter on the Rhyd Ddu path! A wide track now climbs gently into open countryside for 1.5km until reaching a crossroads. Our way goes left through another gate and continues steadily up.
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After gate number 7, the ground begins to steepen and the path, less distinct now, finds its way up a natural drainage channel which is usually damp and slippery. Easier ground then leads to the penultimate gate where the character of the walk changes from a pleasant stroll to a stiff climb on rough terrain. A cairned path leads upwards onto the shoulder of Llechog and skirts the rim of Cwm Clogwyn. Once through gate 9 the excitement ramps up, but not before a steep grind up the zigzags which usher you onto a vertiginous balcony path bound for Bwlch Main. At the bwlch, the ground drops precipitously away into Cwm Tregalan. Turn left and follow a sensational path which traverses just below the crest of the ridge and occasionally on the crest itself before crossing over to the left-hand side. After tackling the narrow section, Yr Wyddfa’s summit lies 600m away. Those with exceptional thirsts will fight their way into the café where cold beer and other such delights await. Drink responsibly!
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From the summit, retrace your steps over Bwlch Main and, rather than heading back along the balcony path, keep on the ridge which rises and briefly narrows in spectacular fashion. This is Allt Maenderyn, Snowdon’s South Ridge which, for the most part, provides a simple descent to Bwlch Cwm Llan. Around halfway down and just before a stile crossing you will come upon a bad step made up of wide grooves through shattered rock. There are several ways to negotiate this obstacle, so have a look around for one that suits you.
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The ridge terminates in a set of steep steps which lead down to the bwlch with Yr Aran rising above. All difficulties are now behind you. Turn right and enjoy an easy walk through Cwm y Llan slate quarry before rejoining the Rhyd Ddu path back to the station car park, a short distance from your next watering hole, the Cwellyn Arms.
What walking gear do I need for this route?
Here's a selection of the best walking gear selected by LFTO's testing team: Walking boots | Hiking daypack | Waterproof jacket | Walking trousers | Walking poles | Walking mid-layers | Base layers
Where can I eat and drink?
The Cwellyn Arms at the end of the route - or the cafe on the summit, of course.
Where's the best place to stay?
The Cwellyn Arms, Snowdon Base Camp, Rhyd Ddu. Check the YHA website for a roundup of the best hostels in Snowdonia.
About the author
Nickis a Snowdonia-based author and photographer, who's been writing features and route guides for Trail magazine and LFTO for over a decade. He's also a Mountain Leader who's passionate about sharing the experience of walking in his native North Wales peaks with other people.