If you’re going to do one walk in the Brecon Beacons, then I insist it should be the Pen y Fan horseshoe.
I grew up on the edge of the National Park and have always thought this is the best route if you want to take in the finest hillwalking all in one go, making it the perfect walk to choose if you only have a day there. It’s not easy to get to the starting point, up above Tal Y Bont, but it’s certainly worth the extra effort.
You’ll park in Neuadd car park and start by strolling up the road before taking a track up towards Cribyn. Don’t let this gentle start fool you as the climbs up and down Cribyn, and Pen y Fan itself, are nice and sharp.
Although it’s easy to miss out, I’d definitely recommend climbing Cribyn, if you can, as this is the quieter peak of the two, with a smaller and much more interesting summit. There are good stone-lined paths in place, making for easy walking. Try to stick to these if at all possible to help minimise the erosion over these mountains.
How long does it take to walk the Pen y Fan Horseshoe?
DIFFICULTY: Medium | DISTANCE: 15km (9¼ miles) | TIME: 4½ hours | TOTAL ASCENT: 797m
FITNESS: This is a fairly big mountain day with some high summits, but the ascent isn't too brutal at 797m. If you're a regular hillwalker, the fitness shouldn't trouble you.
TERRAIN: Good paths following generally well-defined ridge shapes; some steep sections plus sections of loose earth/scree underfoot.
NAVIGATION: The paths are good and you'll be following clearly defined hill shapes, but in low visibility you'll need good map and compass skills to stay on track.
Where is the start of the walk?
Neuadd Reservoir car park. The nearest town is Talybont-on-Usk.
What's the best map for Pen y Fan Horseshoe?
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CLICK HERE to view and download our digital route guide in OS Maps
Pen y Fan Horseshoe | Step-by-step route guide
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Walk to the far end of the car park and take the small path out onto the road, walking along it until you come to a corner with a tree-lined track gently veering off to the right. Follow this path and you’ll come to a ford.
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The ground is loose here so watch your footing as you go down and up. Continue along this path to the foot of Cribyn. Don’t take the rocky footpath to your left, as this will take you around the bottom of Cribyn, but continue into the col between Cribyn and Fan y Big called Bwlch ar y Fan.
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Turn left and follow the rough path up to the obvious path to Cribyn’s summit. It’s a steep climb and wide path. Once at the summit, turn to your left (you’ll be facing Pen y Fan) and follow the very obvious stone path down into the col between Cribyn and Pen y Fan.
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Here you’ll join the Beacons Way up Craig Cwm Sere all the way to the summit. Continue over the large plateau summit, following the left-hand edge, which will lead you down another obvious stony track. Keep right at the fork and climb up onto Corn Du’s summit.
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The way down is a bit of a scramble directly on the other side of where you’ve climbed up. Do apply caution down this path. It’s only a short scramble down and you will see the clear stone path not far below you. Continue on the path, following it around to Craig Gwaun Taf.
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Ensure you follow the path along the left-hand side, along the edge of the ridge. Continue along to Graig Fan Ddu. Once you’ve passed the Upper Neuadd reservoir down below on the left-hand side, the path will veer around to the right. Start to keep an eye out for a large cairn.
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Once you’ve reached the cairn you will see a path down a sharp gully. The ground is slightly loose so be very careful in your descent. Continue down towards the lower reservoir, where you will go through a gate and over the reservoir. Continue along this path, through a small wooded area and to the road, then turn right. Follow this road along, and you will come to the car park on your right side.
What walking gear do I need for this route?
This is a typical Brecon Beacons hillwalk, so you'll need the basics of walking boots or hiking shoes, a good hiking daypack, a reliable waterproof jacket (essential in this National Park!), and a pair of quick-drying walking trousers or shorts.
Depending on the season you walk the Pen y Fan Horseshoe you may need some extra essentials, so check out our hiking gear section for our latest reviews and recommendations.
Where can I eat and drink?
The Star Inn, Talybont-on-Usk
Where's the best place to stay?
Travellers Restaurant and Rooms, Talybont-on-Usk. Check Booking.com, the YHA or Tripadvisor for more accommodation options and deals in the Brecon Beacons.
About the author
Hannah James is an experienced outdoor writer who grew up in the Brecon Beacons and is now based on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales National Park. She's a former member of the Trail editorial team and is now a widely respected freelance author, gear tester and route guide writer.
This route originally appeared in the August 2017 issue of Trail magazine. CLICK HERE to become a Trail magazine subscriber and get 50% off a whole year of digital OS Maps