The red sandstone stack of the Old Man of Hoy is a joy to behold from a hike along the cliffs. It’s one of the UK’s highest rock stacks and soars 137m above the sea, but be quick – he’s approaching 250 years old and could collapse any day.
Before this geological marvel topples, enjoy it as part of this route from the old coastal town of Rackwick on a tour of the rolling, boggy, heathery hillside inland to a human-made attraction.
A climb from Sandy Loch over the boulder-strewn top of Ward Hill (481m) and Haist (333m) brings you to the Dwarfie Stane, a rock-cut stone tomb from around 3000BC, thought to have been carved with only sharpened stone tools.
This makes our hike seem like a breeze, as we skirt round Ward Hill and over Cuilags (435m) and Sui Fea (378m) to the coast at St John’s Head.
Here, the reward is ever-nearing sea views of the Old Man along a rolling, grassy path atop high, red cliffs. Then it’s back to Rackwick to enjoy the Cra’as (Crow’s) Nest crofting museum and the stunning sandy bay with large, smooth stones in red, orange and black.
How difficult is the walk?
DIFFICULTY: Medium | DISTANCE: 24km
TIME: 7 hours | TOTAL ASCENT: 1200m
FITNESS: Good fitness required for two hill climbs and a longish walk.
TERRAIN: Easy paths, not too rocky. Muddy, boggy, heathery, grassy, sandy and boardwalk paths.
NAVIGATION: Good navigation is required as some of the route is not well-trodden. And if the sea mist comes in, you will definitely want to be proficient with a compass on the tops.
Where is the start of the walk?
It's not an easy walk to get to unless you live on Hoy. Catch the ferry from Scrabster (nearest train station Thurso) to Stromness, then another ferry from there to Hoy. Then all you need to do is walk, cycle or drive 6 miles to Rackwick. {hew!
What's the best map for Old Man of Hoy?
Best printed Ordnance Survey maps:
Old Man of Hoy | Step-by-step route guide
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From Rackwick car park turn right and walk back up the road 800m until it bends right and crosses Rackwick Burn. Turn left to follow the path north, across Rackwick Burn first, keeping the river on your right. Cross it again after around 500m, so it’s on your left as you hike up the valley all the way to the saddle before Sandy Loch.
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Turn right at the saddle and head steeply up Ward Hill between two rivers – Water Glen on your left and the Burn of Redglen on your right. Curve leftwards, handrailing Water Glen as you near the top. The summit is 500m due east of this river’s start point. The gradient starts to ease as you reach the top of Ward Hill (479m) and the trig point is partly surrounded by a curved stone wall – handy for a snack out of the wind.
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Descend down Ward Hill’s eastern spur, the Howes of Quoyawa, keeping the cliff edge to your left as you walk the ridge to Haist (333m). Ease right to continue descending down Haist’s gentler, grassy southeastern flank, which soon becomes very steep indeed as you drop to the car park at the road in the valley. Here, follow the well-trodden path southwards to the Dwarfie Stane below the cliffs.
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Retrace your steps to the road, cross it and turn right on the path that runs beside it as it curves northwards all the way to the first field boundary at Whiteglen. Here turn right to reach the road, then turn left on it to continue north towards the small town of Hoy. Turn left at the main road B9047, then left just after Hoy Outdoor Centre, back towards the hills. Stop at the car park for Sandy Loch at the bend in the road.
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Carry straight on down the path for Sandy Loch, take a right fork in the path to cross Braebuster Burn and reach the loch’s north-western corner. Here turn slightly right to climb steeply up the grassy Cuilags (435m) on its eastern spur. It’s a tough, steep ascent, but only for less than 1km until you reach the distinctive stone, cone-shaped cairn at its summit.
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Descend in a north-westerly direction to the saddle, then curve south-west across the broad, boggy bump of Sui Fea (378m) and descend off its western flanks to the promontory of St John’s Head, high above the sea cliffs. Here the clear path south along the cliff tops is easily followed to the Old Man of Hoy viewpoint.
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Turn your back on the Old Man to continue following this clear path south-east around Moor Fea (climb it from here if you have excess energy!). With this lump on your left and the sea to your right, curve eastwards all the way back round to Too of the Head just before Rackwick where you take the right fork in the path inland through farmland. This path soon meets a track and a left turn would take you to the Cra’as (Crow’s) Nest crofting museum (well worth a visit). However a right turn on this route takes you back out to the coast at Nose of the Yard, then left and left again back to the car park.
What walking gear do I need for this route?
Although this isn't the hardest walk you'll ever do, this is still a proper coastal route covering a decent distance, so shouldn't be taken too lightly.
We'd recommend the obvious basics of walking boots or hiking shoes, a good hiking daypack, a reliable waterproof jacket (it rains a lot in the Orkney Islands), and a pair of quick-drying walking trousers with some packable waterproof overtrousers in your bag.
Where can I eat and drink?
We recommend Beneth'ill Cafe in Hoy and Emily’s Tea Rooms in Lyness (open Tuesday to Saturday). Take a packed lunch for the hike.
Where's the best place to stay on Hoy?
Try Rackwick Hostel(minimum stay 2 nights), free camping at the bothy near Rackwick Beach, self-catering just up the road at Burnhouse.
About the author
Claire Maxted is a former writer for Trail magazine and the former editor of Trail Running magazine. She's written countless route guides and gear reviews for LFTO and is the founder of www.wildgingerrunning.co.uk