If Scotland’s Isle of Skye is home to the scariest mountains in the country, some of you might be delighted to know there’s an epic ridge, right in the heart of the action, that caters for the walker. And it’s Bla Bheinn’s South Ridge.
Don’t relax too much though, because even a walk on Skye can involve a short scramble. Bla Bheinn, pronounced 'Blaven', is situated just a stone’s throw due east of Skye’s Black Cuillin mountains, and that regal crown of savage peaks will keep a lofty eye on your progress as you ascend to its 928m, Munro-qualifying, summit.
The South Ridge route is of such stupendous magnitude that you’ll find plenty more to look at though: it does after all rise straight out of Camasunary Bay, one of Scotland’s finest coastal locations. Not only is there a sandy beach at the ridge’s foot, but also a bothy.
It’s the kind of stuff your dreams are made of. There’s one other reward an ascent of this ridge bequeaths those who take on its mantle, and that’s the sight of other sea-locked lands, and the islands of Rum and Eigg.
In fact, Bla Bheinn’s South (actually, more SSW) Ridge points directly at Rum. As well as being uniquely situated, arrow-straight and of an assuringly constant gradient, this route is rare in that the going underfoot, while rough, is generally more of a walk.
For the brave of heart there’s always a little something to scramble on should the itch need scratching, though. The last joy of this ridge is that there are several descent options. I’ve been lucky enough to do it a few times, but it’s not enough.
I have a plan to get the most out of this ridge by staying in the bothy, climbing to the summit, then back down the same way taking in those epic coastal views, before getting back to the bothy for another night of wild living.
How difficult is Bla Bheinn's South Ridge?
Blà Bheinn offers a taste of the same gabbro rock that makes up the nearby Black Cuillin peaks, but without the same level of technical skills required. The main test on this route comes from its length and elevation gain, so good fitness is essential!
How long does it take to climb Bla Bheinn?
From Camansunary Bothy, it takes roughly three hours to get to the summit of Bla Bheinn via the South Ridge (as you can see in this Bla Bheinn summit route). However, if you factor in getting down off the mountain too, you're probably looking at more like six hours. A fully-mapped route is included below.
It's worth stating this is subjective and it could take you a lot longer depending on your levels of fitness and experience, so it's best to start as early as you can.
What's the terrain like?
On this walk, you're treated to the full range of Scottish walking terrain: gravel track, beach, bog, grassy slopes, scree, boulder fields and rocky ridge. Variety is the spice of life, as they say – at least it's unlikely you'll get bored.
Where's the best place to start from?
The route starts and finishes in a lay-by at grid reference NG545172 near Kilmarie and Kirkibost on the B8083. The nearest town is Broadford.
Where's the best place to stay?
In summer, there's a wealth of accommodation options on the Isle of Skye, but many close in the off-season. You can sleep in Camasunary Bothy, at the foot of Bla Bheinn, all year round – it's great but basic.
If you prefer a warm shower, Broadford Youth Hostel is close, as are good self-catering cottages, including Allt Slapin in Torrin.
What gear do I need for this route?
This is a serious route, which ascends up to 928m, so we'd recommend getting properly kitted up – even if the sun is shining when you set off.
Sturdy walking boots are a must-have, as is a comfortable hiking daypack, a good waterproof jacket, an insulating layer and walking trousers with some packable waterproof trousers in your bag. And don't forget the hiking snacks.
How to walk the Bla Bheinn South Ridge: Step-by-step guide
There’s a point on the walk over to Camasunary Bay and the start of the South Ridge, just before you descend to the beach, where you get the most fantastic overview of the bay and the land that, gently at first, folds and buckles into a primitive version of its ambitions.
Before it abandons all modesty and fully embraces becoming one of the finest ridges in Britain, stopping only when it reaches the bottom of the sky. It’s a magical view and one that contextualises the rest of the walk.
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The South Ridge of Bla Bheinn has its roots in the sea at Camasunary Bay. I won’t hear a word said against that fact: just look at a map (above) and see those contour lines pooling ever looser as they meet the ocean. Therefore, any summit bid via the South Ridge necessitates getting your feet wet. From that sandy stance, turn your back to the sea and look at your day’s target and how huge and far away it looks. Don’t worry, the bay you stand in will soon be the thing dwindling in size.
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It’s at the foot of the ridge’s first true steepening that you’ll feel the weight of the ascent to come. The walk from the beach was just a warm-up: from this point on, head down and steady is the way forward, to grind out the brutal climb up the flank of the ridge’s nose.
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Here, above a monstrous band of rock like the Great Wall of China, you stand on the crest of Bla Bheinn’s South Ridge for the first time, yet still amongst the greenery of the lower third of the ridge. Before you carry on, this is a great point to rest, take stock and drink it all in. The rest of the climb is relentlessly steady, never too steep for too long, never too scary. But it just keeps getting better, so fuel up to enjoy.
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From this point on, you’re above the 600m mark. For the rest of the climb, views over to the west and the Black Cuillin range will blow your mind. You’ll find numerous rocky protuberances to have a play on, before sitting back and trying to take it all in. To the east, the views aren’t to be ignored either, with teasing glimpses of Loch Slapin, but it’s those northerly views up into the seemingly never-ending Glen Sligachan that hint at the limitless world that is Scotland for the mountain explorer.
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The south top of Bla Bheinn is only 2m lower and is no less a mighty place than its big brother a few hundred metres away, and surely it should be considered the summit of the South Ridge? The pioneering climber Alexander Nicholson, whose name is immortalised on the Cuillin Ridge’s Sgurr Alasdair, thought Bla Bheinn to be the finest mountain in the whole of Skye. Considering its neighbours, that’s praise indeed, and it’s easy to see why when you look around you. A short, relatively easy down-scramble leads you into a gully between the two tops, before you clamber back up 30m to Bla Bheinn’s true top.
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From the summit, the north-north-east continuation of the Bla Bheinn range becomes apparent as it changes character, and grows teeth and claws. Coastal views out to the north east across the Inner Sound include that often-ignored peninsula known as Applecross; due north and Skye’s Trotternish Ridge meets the eye end on. In fact, wherever you look from here could melt the heart of any lover of wild places. The easiest way off the mountain is via the popular easterly path down to the head of Loch Slapin.
If you're now already planning your next trip to Skye, you might also want to make some time for Sgurr Dearg, another epic ridge route in the Black Cuillin with exposed scrambly terrain.
About the author
Tom Bailey has been Trail magazine’s photographer for more than 20 years and is one of the most experienced hillwalkers and wild campers in Britain. He’s climbed more mountains than most people could dream of and is an oracle of knowledge on everything from routes and gear to geology and nature.