On a recent trip to the Lake District, I teamed up with fellow Live for the Outdoors writer Milo Wilson to slog up what was supposedly Harrison’s Stickle – though in the lashing rain, with only a couple of metres of visibility, it could have been anywhere.
The aim of this trip was to test Nemo Equipment’s outdoor gear. The US brand is trying to grow its UK market, so with three days of rain forecasted, there was no better time to see what it’s made of.
Milo nobly offered to sleep in the Hornet Osmo, an impressively ultralight tent that's dreamy for backpacking in arid regions. But with one skin and being inner-first pitch, Lakeland is not its native habitat.
Despite the nervous look he shot me before disappearing inside for the night, Milo reported back that it “survived pretty well out of its comfort zone”. Meanwhile, I was impressed with the Aurora Ridge 3P, a backpacking tent that's so roomy that it can also comfortably be used for car camping.
The rain hammered down as we explored the Langdale Pikes the next day, but spirits stayed high – especially when it eased enough for us to stop for lunch. Then something remarkable happened.
As we tucked into our snack bars, a patch of blue appeared overhead. “It’s not type 2 fun anymore!”, Milo exclaimed, to the mirth of the group. Moments later the sun broke through, burning off the cloud to reveal Stickle Tarn before us.
That moment confirmed a suspicion I’ve had for a while: autumn is the best time to hike in the Lake District, even when the weather’s at its worst. Here’s why.
1. Solitude on the fells
It’s hard to top Scafell Pike on a sunny August Bank Holiday – and by that I mean it’s hard to get to the top, as you wade through an endless stream of walkers (which you are of course adding to).
It’s great that so many people are enjoying the outdoors, but if you’re ever so slightly misanthropic, and your main reason for going to the hills is to get away from it all, you’ll welcome the wetter seasons with open arms.
As clouds roll in, the crowds melt away. A ridgeline or summit all to yourself is a rare treat that's possible in summer, but far more likely in autumn.
2. It can't rain all day...
I love that in autumn you can spend an entire day slogging through rain, only for it to suddenly brighten into a golden evening.
It’s cheesy, but when the sun breaks through, you suddenly forget about your wet socks. It’s like when you’ve been ill, then you wake up one morning feeling better and everything is full of colour.
There’s one pitfall here though. The weather might never break, in which case you’re still miserable. BUT this is where the next reason comes in.
3. There's always the pub
It doesn’t matter how tough you think you are: battling abysmal weather gets miserable eventually. Your kit is another matter. Not every waterproof jacket keeps you dry in a whole day of relentless downpours.
Willpower won’t change the weather, but it can carry you back to the valley, where you can pat yourself on the back, hang up your wet kit and sink into a pub armchair to enjoy a pie and pint like never before.
4. Everything is more dramatic
Wild weather brings the Lakes to life. Clouds tumble over ridgelines, waterfalls roar in full spate and sun beams obscure and reveal views at their whimsy. When the clouds lift, the dripping bracken appears vivid, even though its fronds are crisping at the edges.
Everything they say about four seasons in a day is more true in the autumnal Lake District. And when you're watching a rain cloud creep up the valley, threatening an imminent downpour that may or may not strike, it's hard to get bored.
5. Less overtourism
There’s a serious side to all this: the strain on local infrastructure in peak summer. Every year brings reports of clogged roads, careless parking and littering, and this year was no exception.
August bank holiday weekend saw Westmorland and Furness Council issuing a warning against irresponsible parking, littering and anti-social behaviour. The honeypot towns still get a lot of footfall in autumn, but the pressure on locals and services is far lighter.
And selfishly, this also means you don’t have to wake up at dawn to get a parking spot, and you can probably – though not definitely – get a table at the Old Dungeon Ghyll.
6. It’s the ultimate relationship test
Struggling up a fell in the wind and rain together will either bond you for life, or obliterate your relationship into a sodden mess. Like riding a tandem bike or manoeuvring a double kayak through rapids, it’s a great way of finding out whether you can fundamentally get along with someone.
If you can both remain cheerful (or at least mutually supportive) when you’re a bit lost, yelling at each other over the howling wind, then you’re onto a winner.
7. And the ultimate kit test
Much like a friend or partner, there’s only one way of determining if your kit will stick around: treat it to an autumnal trip to the Lakes. ‘Waterproof’ jackets quietly give in, ‘3-season’ tents start to waver and even the hardiest looking walking boots eventually succumb.
Everything your kit told you about itself is laid bare in these conditions, allowing you to sort the genuine from the pretentious. And once it proves its mettle, it earns your trust forever.
On that note, check out our favourite waterproof jackets and waterproof trousers, joyfully tested in abysmal conditions.