The UK is full of mountains that, if it weren’t for their location, would be significantly more popular with hikers. The Five Sisters of Kintail are a prime example.
A particularly fine chain of peaks that includes three Munros, a couple of Munro Tops, and some classically airy ridge walking; the fact that all but the keenest hillwalkers have never set foot on them can be distilled down to two key factors.
Firstly, for the majority of the UK population, it’s a long way away. The Five Sisters sit above Glen Shiel in the North West Highlands of Scotland, which is another hour’s drive further north of Fort William.
Now that drive is well worth making because Glen Shiel is a superb valley rife with fantastic mountain hikes, but this brings us on to the Five Sisters’ second challenge: the competition. These mountains rise to the north of Glen Shiel, but on the southern side lies the unimaginatively if geographically accurately titled South Glen Shiel Ridge.
A day out on the South Glen Shiel Ridge will bag you no fewer than seven Munros, making it hugely appealing for those collecting summits. Almost directly opposite the Five Sisters, again on the southern side of Glen Shiel, the exquisite Forcan Ridge provides a thrilling scramble to the summit of The Saddle, drawing yet more mountain folk away from its neighbours.
And finally, because the road through Glen Shiel leads to the world-renowned Isle of Skye, there are plenty of people who don’t even slow down through Glen Shiel, let alone stop, get out, and consider climbing anything there. But you and I are better than that.
And besides, even in comparison with these other magnificent mountains, the Five Sisters have plenty going for them. They have more summits than The Saddle, finer arêtes than the South Glen Shiel Ridge, and far fewer people than almost anywhere on Skye.
If exquisitely sculpted peaks, tinglingly narrow ridges, and solitudinous hillwalking in spectacular scenery are your thing (and if they’re not you’re reading the wrong mag), it’s about time I introduced you to the Five Sisters of Kintail.
What are the Five Sisters of Kintail?
The peaks that make up the Five Sisters ridge are:
Sgurr na Mòraich (876m)
Sgurr nan Saighead (929m)
Sgurr Fhuaran (1067m)
Sgurr na Carnach (1002m)
Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe (1027m)
Local legend tells the story of two Irish Princes washed ashore during a storm, who fell in love with two of the seven daughters of the King of Kintail. The princes married the two youngest princesses, then returned to Ireland promising to send their five brothers back across the Irish Sea to marry the five remaining daughters.
The brothers never returned, so the five sisters eventually asked the Grey Magician of Coire Dhunnaid to extend their lives beyond human form so they could continue waiting, which is when he turned them into the five mountains you see above Gken Shiel today. And if you believe that, you'll believe anything!
Where are the Five Sisters of Kintail?
The Five Sisters are an impressive chain peaks that sit just below the southern tip of Loch Duich, on the northern edge of mighty Glen Shiel, in the North West Highlands of Scotland. They're one of the last mountain chains you'll pass before reaching the Kyle of Lochalsh and the bridge to the Isle of Skye.
If you decide to climb the peaks in this route guide, make sure you immerse yourself in the region for a few days because this is about as good as British mountain walking gets. Other great nearby routes include Forcan Ridge on The Saddle and, of course, the Skye Cuillin, just a short drive away.
The Five Sisters of Kintail | Step-by-step route guide
Two things you need to know before we start. First, this is a linear route, so you’ll either need two cars or to make use of the buses that run along the A87 between Skye and Glasgow or Inverness (visit the website citylink.co.uk for timetables).
Second, the initial ascent borders on hellish. But then the bulk of the hard climbing is done, leaving the undulating chain of peaks to enjoy at your leisure. Just don’t miss the bus back or it’s a long walk.
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Grid reference: NH008135. Brace yourself – this first bit is a necessary evil. From the car park by the A87 you’re going to start climbing immediately. Up through the gap between the forestry plantations, following the steep and often boggy path as it snakes back and forth. There’s a brief respite as it contours right to the corner of the eastern forestry enclosure, then it cuts left and north and up and up again. Not soon enough, you’ll arrive at Bealach an Lapain, having only covered about 1.5km in distance but 550m of ascent – a significant chunk of the total. Breathe.
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Grid reference: NH010145. You’re on the ridge proper now, and although the ascent isn’t over, it’s gentler, less of a soulless trudge, and the scenery is immense. Heading almost due west, you’ll climb over outlying nubble Beinn Odhar and onto the first proper summit of the day, Munro Top Sgurr nan Spainteach, ‘Peak of the Spaniards’. “Olé!” away, but it’s not actually one of the Five Sisters...
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Grid reference: NG991150. A little scrambling is required from here, but not much. A rocky descent leads to a short drop that requires some hands-on clambering, but it’s not far. After some interesting ground which can prove confusing in poor visibility, there’s another steep ascent (albeit nothing compared to the start of the day) to arrive on the summit of the first Sister and Munro, Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe.
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Grid reference: NG983149. Have your camera at the ready. Shortly after leaving the summit, you get a magnificent view along the length of Loch Duich to the west, with Sgurr an t-Searraich photobombing in from the right. After Bealach na Craoibhe you’ll up and over Sgurr na Carnach (Sister and Munro number 2), before a steep and awkward bouldery ascent leads from Bealach na Carnach up to the summit of Sgurr Fhuaran.
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Grid reference: NG978166. As well as being Munro and Sister number three, Sgurr Fhuaran is the highest point on the Five Sisters. From here you’ll kink west to avoid the steep crags of Sgurr Fhuaran’s north face before continuing north across Bealach Buidhe towards Sgurr nan Saighead. Now, pay attention – this is important. Despite being the fourth Sister, Sgurr nan Saighead is ‘only’ a Munro Top and the path bypasses its summit. The path is an idiot. Sticking to the crest of the ridge reveals the sheerest and most exposed slopes of the entire ridge in the form of the peak’s east cliffs, then its north-east face. Only a fool would miss this, and you’re not a fool.
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Grid reference: NG971184. After scrambling over the bump of Beinn Bhuidhe you’ll arrive at a final bealach above the western rim of Coire na h-Uaighe. From here, a path descends west, bringing the route to an end. But those of you with a full set of digits on your hand will have spotted that we’ve only counted four sisters. Unless you’ve a heart of stone or legs of concrete, you’ll out-and-back north-west to the fifth Sister, Sgurr na Moraich, before returning to the bealach and making the long burn-side and waterfall accompanied descent to Loch Duich.
Walk the Five Sisters of Kintail
Get Trail magazine’s full route guide, including detailed mapping and a downloadable GPS track, by clicking the route below in OS Maps.
About the author
Ben Weeks is our long-serving gear editor and something of an authority when it comes to walking, scrambling, camping, backpacking and climbing in the Scotland's mountains. Summer to winter – you name it, Ben's done it. He walked the route in this picture with his brother Tom, who, as you can see below, found it a bit tougher than his big bro.
