Kevin Thaw

Check out this interview with Kevin Thaw

By LFTO News Team

Outdoor headlines

07 November 2008 14:57

Kevin Thaw is regarded by many as the best all round rock climber in Britain. His impressive climbs across the globe and many TV appearances make him also one of the best known. Here, thanks to CheapTents.com, LFTO has a fascinating interview regarding his past exploits and plans for future climbs...

What inspired you to get into Climbing?

My initial motivation to get out the door for a first vertical experience came from a TV show. Britain’s three channels at the time had myself and all local friends watching the same morning program: Two chaps climbing a route at Millstone quarry (Oxford street if current and ancient memories are cross referencing correctly) in the UK’s Peak District. Phone calls immediately bounded between several of us and venue was narrowed from many options.  My ancestral locale has sufficient venues to warrant it’s own guidebook, Chew Valley – Moorland Gritstone, abundant in steep.

A washing line of the 7mm-ish plastic coated variety was the only cord glean-able at such short notice. Den Lane quarry was the chosen venue, closest to the village. Upon arrival it became apparent that none of us had actually picked up on how the rope played into climbing, even though it was the most crucial and only piece of gear we had? We eventually secured it atop the chosen crack line and ‘chicken soloed’ next to it (free climbing with the idea of grasping the rope should anything go wrong? Can’t say I’d recommend such a method to begin steep endeavours, local climbers seemed the think the same after seeing our repeated visits without procedure change, finally a couple of climbers took us aside an literally showed us the ropes.

Harnesses were purchased directly from the Troll factory and a rope was “found” at a nearby pallet (wooden crates designed for fork lifter loading) factory. Each week a new piece was added to the rack, safety to progress up the grade levels.

What has been your biggest sporting achievement?
Hard to honestly pick a single achievement or particular ascent. I’ve found switching gears between climbing’s disciplines has kept motivation ebbing and always refreshed the set of goals. Can’t honestly say it’s a consciously shift from, say; Alpine or big walls to sport climbing or bouldering modes, environment of course dictates. New routes have always been a big motivation but again switching gears from the wee stones and crags to frosty Patagonian or Himalayan walls.

What is you biggest weakness?
Fascinated by small electronic items, the more they do the harder to resist!

When did you feel like you ‘made it’ in your field of outdoor sports?

Have I ‘made it?’

What do you find most challenging about training?
Weather always promotes the biggest hurdle for getting into motion. Indoor climbing is of course an option but again location dependent. Living in a couple of California’s climbing areas is of course hard to beat when seasonality is right. When Joshua Tree gets too hot or the monsoon season landed in Bishop I strangely feel deprived.

What has been your worst injury (if any) from outdoors sports and how did it happen?
The 150ft Patagonian slab ride as a ledge collapsed under me could have been ‘the one’ but falling thirty feet from a gritstone route at the Roaches in England is certainly the most trauma suffered. Got away with a cracked heel from an on-sight attempt of Obsession Fatale E8 6c. A traditionally headpointed climb that felt right on that sticky feeling autumn evening.

Incidentally, ‘Headpointing’ is the technique of previewing a climb with the safety of a top-rope with a view to rehearsing a difficult yet unprotected (no safety fixtures in the rock) sequence of moves, then climbing it ‘by fair means’ from the ground up.

Six weeks down time was a considerably lucky outcome from what could easily have been life changing.

What will be your most challenging climbs for next year?
I’ve several plots in the mix for next year each could prove equally as challenging, sights are set firmly on a Patagonian goal and a Yosemite free climbing project. Plus am hoping current communication with a production company will come to fruition for a series of Big Wall shows. A high bar has been set for ascents to be filmed.

Where would you like to be in 5 years time? Main Ambitions?
Not sure if one tour on this planet will be time enough to get through all that I’d like to do. Climbing goals aside, financial solvency is always a quest.

For other budding outdoor sports enthusiasts, what tips can you provide to help other compete at a higher level?
Fuel your passion and get out there! If motivation can be kept on a high then training and activity should easily fall into place!

What are your favourite bits of gear, and why?
I don’t think I’ve done a trip without a North Face Redpoint jacket since their invention. Warmth to weight ratio is hard to beat and of course is fashionable enough for cosmopolitan area. Certainly my most consistently carried garment.

Any people or sponsors that you’d like thank?
The North Face, Wild Country, Five Ten…

Anything else you would like to say?
I hope you find the wide eyed adventure and fun that I feel the outdoors have granted me.