What to look for in a hill-walker's ice-axe

07 July 2008 16:44

Every winter walker needs an ice axe, but the array on offer can be intimidating. You need to inspect these seven elements of the axe you’re interested in to decide whether it’s right for you.

1 Spike
A conical spike on the end of the shaft is better for driving into the ground for stability on steep slopes, whereas a spade-shaped spike is better for self arrest. There’s really not enough in it to greatly influence your final choice of axe.

2 Shaft
The length of the shaft is critical: too long and you’ll have difficulty swinging it efficiently; too short and you’ll have to crouch for support on a slope. Lengths vary from around 50cm for climbing axes to 90cm for the longest walking axes. To find the right size for you, hold the head with your arm by your side; the spike should be about 8cm (3in) from the ground. A rubber grip on the shaft makes it easier to hold on to, but trickier to plunge into hard snow. It also makes it heavier and pricier.

3 Pick
The business end of the axe has to be aggressive enough for efficient placement, yet not so steeply angled as to tear itself from your hands when used to ice axe arrest. Take a range and have a look at the heads – those with more teeth and a positive point will bite more firmly (a plus for mountaineers), but for walking the teeth aren’t so important. Remember that a point which tapers from the sides will bite less aggressively, leading to a smoother, safer arrest.

4 Leash
Not all axes come with a leash but it’s often worth having one. A hand leash will provide support and help stop you losing it, but it can be awkward to swap from hand to hand as you zigzag up or down a snow slope. To check this, put on some thick winter gloves and try swapping both axe and leash between your hands.

5 Classification
For simple winter walking a ‘basic’ axe is fine, being cheaper and often lighter than the stronger mountaineering, or ‘technical’ axe. Look for a ‘B’ or a ‘T’ symbol somewhere on the axe – ‘B’ is for ‘basic’ and ‘T’ is for ‘technical’.
A technical axe will have a stronger shaft (350 daN versus 250 daN for basic), can be used for belaying and, usually, sports a higher price tag. You don’t need this type of axe for winter walking.

6 Adze
The adze is that flat bit on the opposite end of the head to the pick, and it’s important for hacking steps. It’s generally a case of the broader the better, but check that it allows for a comfortable carry.

7 Feel
You want an axe that’s light enough to be convenient yet balanced enough for swinging efficiently. To test this, swing the axe as if cutting a step, suddenly stopping the movement and seeing how far your hand is pulled by the momentum. If the axe stops immediately and doesn’t pull your hand through, it’s probably too light. If your hand is pulled too far, it may be too heavy or unbalanced: check you are comfortable with the overall weight. Try a few and you’ll get a feel for them.