How to choose the right pair

26 June 2008 16:06

Boots are the most important piece of outdoor gear you’ll buy, and the final crucial tests for fit and function specific to you are down to one person only…

Use
Decide what it is you want to do in the outdoors, and then choose a boot designed for that activity. Boots are technically categorised as follows:

B0 – flexible 3-season boots for valley, hill and mountain walking, backpacking, scrambling and via ferrata.  They are not recommended for use with crampons or for use on snow in the mountains.

B1– stiff but flexible 3-4 season boots for use on or off the snow when hill-walking and backpacking in the mountains. They are recommended for use with C1 types of crampons and for use on snow in the mountains.

B2 – very stiff 4-season boots for use on snow when hill-walking, climbing or mountaineering. They are recommended for use with C1 or C2 crampons and for use on snow in the mountains.

B3 – totally stiff and flat-soled ice-climbing boots for serious snow and ice climbing and mountaineering. They are recommended for use with C1, C2 or C3 crampons and for use on snow in the mountains.

Upper
Stiff uppers are better for rocky ground and winter use, and they allow crampon straps to be comfortably fitted. Softer uppers are more comfortable and so are best for valley walkers where less support and protection is required than on rocky mountains.

Waterproofness
If the upper is made of one piece of leather, or is relatively stitch-free, the boot will be as waterproof as most people will require, particularly if it is made of thick leather. Boots that are covered in stitching or that are made with synthetic materials will leak more easily, while a waterproof lining will make the boot waterproof.

Toe box
Press the toe box with your thumb and then pinch the toe box on the sides. If the toe box flexes easily, the boot is best restricted to good paths in the valley, while a stiffer toe box is better for rocky mountain use and winter use.

Fit
We have indicated the sizes available for each boot and whether they are only available in a men’s fit or also in a women’s fit. Women’s models are generally narrower at the heel. The inside of the boot should be around 13-15mm (half an inch) longer than your foot. To estimate this, with your foot inside the boot with the laces loosened off, roughly measure the gap by placing a finger down the inside of the boot at the heel. The upper should be snug and comfortable over the foot. Walk around the shop and feel for any heel movement. Better shops can help with boot fitting, so do ask for their help.

Durability
Stitching will come apart over time, so a boot with minimal stitching will be the most durable. Stiff uppers made from thick leather will be more durable than those made from synthetic materials. To improve durability, look for a rubber rand around the sides, toes and heels of the boot. The most durable boots are best for rocky mountain use and winter use, while less durable designs are best restricted to good paths in the valley.

Support
Choose boots with minimal underfoot support for walking on good valley paths, but choose boots with a stiffer sole and plenty of support underfoot for use on rocky mountain terrain.

Heel cup
Pinch the heel cup between the fingers. If it is soft and flexible it won’t offer much support, so such boots are best restricted to valley path use, while boots with stiffer heel cups are better for rocky mountain walks and winter use where maximum support is useful. 

Midsole
Grab the boot by the toe and heel, and bend the heel towards the toe. Then twist the toe while holding the heel steady. The harder it is to bend the boot, the better suited it is to snow and rocky ground, and crampon use. The softer the flex, the better the boot is suited to use on good paths in the valley. A 3-4 season boot is stiffer than a 3-season boot but not as stiff as a 4-season boot.

Outsole
For winter walking, look for grooves that are at least twice as deep as the thickness of a pound coin. Lug depths less than this are ideal for hill and valley walking. If the lugs are less than the depth of a single coin, they won’t give much grip in mud or grass and they’ll also wear down quickly on harder surfaces. The heel breast (the cutaway section between forefoot and heel) should be three times the thickness of a pound coin for hill-walking above or below the snowline. Boots with shallower heel breasts are best restricted to good paths at valley level.

Cushioning
With the boots on, stamp your feet on the ground to get an idea of how well the boot can cushion impact. More cushioning is best for walking, but climbers may prefer less cushioning to allow a greater ‘feel’ for what they are standing on.