How do I choose the right type of walking boot?

26 June 2008 16:37

Almost all boots look equally seductive in the shop, but you should make a realistic self-assessment before you start reaching for the shelves...

Are you a… valley walker?
Boot category: B0
Performance priorities: grip, water resistance

A comfortable boot that fits well is the essential starting point for any type of walking. That means PU (polyurethane), EVA (ethyl vinyl acetate) or a dual density rubber underfoot along with soft and supple uppers made of synthetic materials such as a combination of Cordura and low-priced suede leather or thin (less than 2mm) leather.
Grip is essential, so look for an aggressive pattern of lugs on the sole, where the lug depth is at least equal to the thickness of a pound coin. A reasonable level of water resistance is needed too. Look for either reasonably stitch-free leather uppers or synthetic uppers with a waterproof lining.
A low ankle cuff will allow a more natural walking action, while soft padding around the ankle will keep this area comfortable. Lighter boots make a substantial contribution to keeping you from tiring, so if all other things are equal, go for the lighter option. Aim for no heavier than 1400-1500g per pair of size 8s.

Are you a… hill & moorland walker?
Boot category: B0
Performance priorities: foot and ankle support, grip, upper protection, water resistance

Foot and ankle support will make uneven terrain more comfortable, so look for a good level of stiffness in the sole and upper. A higher ankle cuff will provide support for the ankle and help keep mud and grit out. Soft padding around the ankle will keep this area comfortable.
Uppers can be made of leather or synthetic materials, but these should be thicker (over 2mm) and stiffer than valley boots. The toe and heel areas should be stiff to protect your feet. Look for Nubuck, split leather, full-grain leather or hydrophobic leather with a wicking lining such as Cambrelle to keep your feet dry from sweat.
Look for an aggressive pattern of lugs on the sole, where the lug depth is at least the thickness of a pound coin and ideally a little more. A boot which is reasonably free of stitching will be more durable and water-resistant.

Are you a… mountain walker?
Boot category: B0
Performance priorities: foot and ankle support, grip, upper protection, durability, water resistance

Foot and ankle support will make uneven terrain more comfortable, so look for good stiffness in the sole and upper. A higher ankle cuff will provide support and keep grit out, while soft padding around the ankle will keep this area comfortable.
Uppers can be made of leather or synthetic materials, but these will be thicker (around 2.2-2.4mm) and stiffer than valley boots to provide the higher levels of support needed on this terrain. Synthetic uppers and leather uppers with lots of stitching will be less durable than one-piece leather uppers on typical rough and rocky mountain terrain. The toe box and heel cup area should be very stiff to protect the feet from stray boulders. Look for split leather, full-grain leather or Nubuck leather uppers. A rubber rand around the toe, sides and heel will add durability. Wicking linings such as Cambrelle will keep your feet dry from sweat.
An aggressive, hard-wearing pattern of lugs on the sole is needed for grip. Look for lug depth that is equal to twice the thickness of a pound coin.

Are you a… winter hill-walker?
Boot category: B1 or B2
Performance priorities: crampon compatibility, ability to kick an edge into the snow; foot and ankle support, upper protection, water resistance, warmth

Your boots need to be crampon-compatible (graded as B1 or B2). Foot and ankle support is essential for traversing steep slopes, so look for a high level of stiffness in the upper, and little flex in the sole. High ankle support is essential. Uppers can be made of leather or synthetic materials, but these will be thicker (around 2.2-3.0mm) and stiffer than those used in valley or hill boots. The toe and heel should be very stiff to protect the feet from hard ice that you may have to kick to create a step. The upper also needs to be stiff enough to prevent crampon straps from cutting off circulation to your feet. A high rubber rand around the toe, sides and heel is good, mated to a sole with lug depth of at least twice the thickness of a pound coin to give good grip on slushy and mixed terrain. It’s easy to get tempted towards sexy-looking but heavy Alpine boots, but resist for UK use. Aim to stay well under 2000g a pair.