It’s hard to pick the best feature of Donegal’s landscape.  There are mountain peaks in the Derryveagh range that are deeply satisfying to conquer even though they aren’t that high; the cliffs around Slieve League and Glencolmcille are spectacular; the Blue Stacks to the south are as rugged and wild as you could ask for. 

Wherever you walk in Donegal, you need good waterproof boots.  It’s wet all over, so not for thos afraid of a little bog wallowing.  But you’re rewarded with some wonderful views and crystal clear skyscapes.  Unfortunately, the bungalow blitz of unrestricted development of second homes for many years means that some wonderful viewpoints have been spoiled.

There are, however, some marvellous beach walks (including Portsalon, voted by readers of the Observer as the second most beautiful beach in the world).  Sweeping white-golden sands, secluded bays, wild weather and the ever-present driving power of the Atlantic.  The air doesn’t get much fresher than this… it’s like sand-blasting the soul.

If you’re stuck with a soft day when the cloud level is round your knees and the wetness is insinuating itself through even your super-duper goretex, there’s plenty to do in Donegal.  There are ruined castles, artists’ workshops museums.

You could spend a fortnight exploring the Inishowen peninsula alone.  But to really get to grips with this place, you have to explore one or two of the county’s islands.  Tory, Gola, and Arranmore are all fabulous in different ways - and all have their own little way-marked routes.