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By tbraim
22 April 2008 10:16
I am a competent grade 1 scrambler but want to branch into grade 2. How should a rope be used to secure 2 walkers, i.e. what knots are used and any other suggestions for safe & proper use of a rope?
By Trail magazine
Trail magazine’s Climbing expert, Jeremy Ashcroft, advises:“Rope work is the first step towards rock climbing and there really are no short cuts. I think the best approach is to go on a course, either at an outdoor centre like Plas y Brenin in Snowdonia or Glenmore Lodge in the Cairngorms, at a climbing wall or with a private instructor. “In terms of 'bang for bucks' I would go along the private instructor route - a good one should be able to cover the essential basics in a 1 to 1 or 1 to 2 situation in a day. Try the classified adverts in the back of Trail, or the Association of Mountaineering Instructors for local experts.”
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How should I use a rope when scrambling?
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andyathome says
Re: How should I use a rope when scrambling?
resumedocket said: It should be noted that FIELD & TREK and other good mountaineering stores will provide a shorter rope, with the best over the counter probably the Mountain Leader Training Board (M.L.T.B.) 8mm x 30m rope which I have used often for scrambling and abseiling/lowering. __________________ We have the perfect Resume Writing Services ,who will highlight all your strengths and showcase your qualifications setting you apart from the rest ------ End Quote ------ Mr Docket is a little out of touch here as MLTB changed its name to MLTE in 2004 and stopped doing ropes in 1998......
resumedocket said: It should be noted that FIELD & TREK and other good mountaineering stores will provide a shorter rope, with the best over the counter probably the Mountain Leader Training Board (M.L.T.B.) 8mm x 30m rope which I have used often for scrambling and abseiling/lowering. __________________ We have the perfect Resume Writing Services ,who will highlight all your strengths and showcase your qualifications setting you apart from the rest
It should be noted that FIELD & TREK and other good mountaineering stores will provide a shorter rope, with the best over the counter probably the Mountain Leader Training Board (M.L.T.B.) 8mm x 30m rope which I have used often for scrambling and abseiling/lowering.
__________________
We have the perfect Resume Writing Services ,who will highlight all your strengths and showcase your qualifications setting you apart from the rest
------ End Quote ------
Mr Docket is a little out of touch here as MLTB changed its name to MLTE in 2004 and stopped doing ropes in 1998......
29 April 2010 16:16
robinjsmith says
Andy gives some good advice there, but inevitably any written description is only part of the story (e.g. how does belayer control rope) - as he suggests it would be well worth getting a proper guide before you start falling off mountains attached to expensive gear, like the MLTUK guide he suggests, and BMC DVD guides. There's also quite a lot on YouTube worth searching for. Once you've read/watched, practice in safe places - stairs, car parks, safe hill sides. And ideally with someone with you who knows what they're doing - they can pick up the things you do wrong without knowing it. A local climbing club, or LFTO meet would help there taking you up simpler routes to practice.
Andy gives some good advice there, but inevitably any written description is only part of the story (e.g. how does belayer control rope) - as he suggests it would be well worth getting a proper guide before you start falling off mountains attached to expensive gear, like the MLTUK guide he suggests, and BMC DVD guides. There's also quite a lot on YouTube worth searching for.
Once you've read/watched, practice in safe places - stairs, car parks, safe hill sides. And ideally with someone with you who knows what they're doing - they can pick up the things you do wrong without knowing it. A local climbing club, or LFTO meet would help there taking you up simpler routes to practice.
29 April 2010 13:30
resumedocket says
RE: I am a competent grade 1 scrambler but want to branch into grade 2. How should a rope be used to secure 2 walkers, i.e. what knots are used and any other suggestions for safe & proper use of a rope?
It should be noted that FIELD & TREK and other good mountaineering stores will provide a shorter rope, with the best over the counter probably the Mountain Leader Training Board (M.L.T.B.) 8mm x 30m rope which I have used often for scrambling and abseiling/lowering. __________________ We have the perfect Resume Writing Services ,who will highlight all your strengths and showcase your qualifications setting you apart from the rest
29 April 2010 12:38
Andy Say says
A big ask! Attaching people to the end of a rope is usually done with either a bowline or a re-threaded figure of eight knot. But bear in mind that a definition of 'solo climbing' is one person falling alone; a 'roped party' is a group of people falling together! So you need also to think about how the rope is actually going to be used to safeguard anyone - usually by having one person securely attached to an 'anchor' whilst one person moves over tricky sections. The same two knots or the overhand knot can all be used to secure the 'belayer' to the chosen anchor (tree, spike of rock, boulder etc.) It can be useful to carry a couple of long tape slings for use on anchors - this makes things quicker and uses less rope - attachment of the rope to them will normally be by use of screwgate karabiners. If you might have to hold bigger people then a further improvement is to invest in an HMS krab. (as well as a sling) which can be used with a knot called the Italian Hitch as a type of friction brake taking a lot of stress out of any holding or lowering. Have a look at chapter 11 of 'Hillwalking', published by MLTUK, for a thorough treatment of the subject.
A big ask!
Attaching people to the end of a rope is usually done with either a bowline or a re-threaded figure of eight knot. But bear in mind that a definition of 'solo climbing' is one person falling alone; a 'roped party' is a group of people falling together! So you need also to think about how the rope is actually going to be used to safeguard anyone - usually by having one person securely attached to an 'anchor' whilst one person moves over tricky sections. The same two knots or the overhand knot can all be used to secure the 'belayer' to the chosen anchor (tree, spike of rock, boulder etc.)
It can be useful to carry a couple of long tape slings for use on anchors - this makes things quicker and uses less rope - attachment of the rope to them will normally be by use of screwgate karabiners.
If you might have to hold bigger people then a further improvement is to invest in an HMS krab. (as well as a sling) which can be used with a knot called the Italian Hitch as a type of friction brake taking a lot of stress out of any holding or lowering. Have a look at chapter 11 of 'Hillwalking', published by MLTUK, for a thorough treatment of the subject.
03 May 2008 11:46
smithtom82
04 May 2009
12:52
What scrambling grades are Central and Custs Gulley on Great End, in summer conditions, and how long do they take?
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